Most amaryllis will go dormant naturally and re-bloom sometime during winter. However, many people prefer to force their amaryllis
into bloom for the holiday season. Many ‘prepared’ bulbs are sold in the fall, ready to pot up and have in time for Christmas.

Here are directions for forcing your Amaryllis for holiday display, as well as general care for your
amaryllis plant.


What You’ll Need

•Amaryllis Bulb
•A pot slightly larger than the bulb (½ - 2" around the sides of the bulb)
•Well-draining Potting Mix
•Bamboo Stalk
•Patience

Planting a New Amaryllis Bulb

1.Choose a bulb(s) that’s plump and still has some roots at the base.

2.Make sure the pot you chose is just large enough for the bulb. Generally a 5 - 7" pot will work fine. The bulb needs to feel crowded to
bloom.

3.Partially fill the pot with potting mix and place the bulb so that top third of it will be exposed when you fill in potting soil around the
sides of the pot.

4.Place a bamboo stalk along side the bulb. The flowers can get top heavy and inserting the stake now will help you avoid damaging
the bulb and roots later.

5.Water well.

6.Place the pot in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist, but not wet.

7.A thick flower stalk should shoot up within a few weeks. The flat leaves will follow as the flower stalk matures.

8.Turn the pot every few days, so the flower stalk gets uniform exposure on all sides and grows straight.

9.You can feed your Amaryllis with a half strength water soluble fertilizer every 2-3 weeks.

10.When the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk back to just above the bulb. Keep watering the plant until it goes dormant in the fall. You
can more or plant the Amaryllis outdoors for the summer, in partial shade.

Forcing an Existing Amaryllis Plant to Bloom for the Holidays

1.To force bloom for the winter holidays, cut back the flower stalk after blooming stops, but allow the foliage to grow. You can place
your plant outdoors for summer, if you like, in partial shade.

2.Keep watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.

3.Stop feeding in August.

4.When it’s time to bring plants indoors, in September or October, move your Amaryllis to a cool (55 to 60 degrees F.), dry spot and stop
watering it. The foliage will already be dying back. If you want your Amaryllis to bloom at a specific time, Thanksgiving or Christmas,
count backwards about 10 - 12 weeks, to determine when to stop watering, and cross your fingers.

5.The lack of foliage and water will induce the amaryllis to send out another flower stalk. Resume watering at this time and move the
plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will follow shortly and then blooms.

6.When the flowers fade, start the process over.

Allowing Your Amaryllis to Re-bloom Naturally

1.To allow your Amaryllis to re-bloom naturally, cut off the flower stalk after blooming ceases, but let the foliage continue to grow as
long as it can. Keep it in bright light, indoors or out.

2.Keep watered so the soil is moist, but not wet.

3.Stop feeding in August.

4.Bring indoors before frost and place in a cool spot in indirect, bright light.

5.The leaves will start to yellow and drop around December. Keep watering as usual and new flowers stalks should appear in a month
or two. Resume feeding at this time and move the plant to a warm, sunny spot. Leaves will follow shortly and then blooms.

6.When the flowers fade, start the process over. Allowing the plant to bloom naturally will result in larger plants and flowers.

General Care & Growing Tips for Amaryllis

•Whatever method you choose, resume feeding your Amaryllis, after flowering.

•As your Amaryllis bulb gets larger, you will need to increase the size of the pot. Just make sure it’s still a cozy fit.

•Amaryllis bulbs will produce side bulbs, like daffodils. Carefully remove these bulbils and pot up for more plants. Give them a few
seasons of growth before expecting flowers.

•Some warmth is needed when forcing begins, but flowers will last longer if the plant is kept in a cool spot, once it blooms.

•If your Amaryllis won’t go dormant, remove the remaining leaves and repot.

•Keep on the lookout for spider mites and mealy bugs.

Reasons Amaryllis don’t bloom:

•No rest period
•Insufficient light while actively growing
•Poor nutrients in soil

By Marie Iannotti, About.com Guide

SEE AMARYLLIS BULBS AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE FROM E AND B FARM
HOW TO GET YOUR
AMARYLLIS TO FLOWER
E and B Farm
Eddie and Belinda Winters
541 J.C. Sullivan Road
Louisville, MS 39339
(662) 779-0186
(662) 736-0914 (Belinda's cell phone)
eddieandbelinda@eandbfarm.com
GIFT CERTIFICATES
ARE NOW AVAILABLE
Visit our plant label page.